On the Inca’s Path: the best of Ecuador Peru and Bolivia
When I decided to go travelling to South America for the first time, I was torn about which destination to pick: Argentina’s Patagonia, Chile’s Andes, Brasil and the Amazon, Venezuela, Colombia..it’s such a big, complex, and rich continent that is impossible to see it all at once.
Eventually, I made up my mind starting from my dream of a lifetime: hiking Macchu Picchu in Perù. Around this main idea, I built up my itinerary, and I realised that, amongst all the marvellous things that South America has to offer, following the Inca’s path was my thing.
Why? The Inca civilization was the biggest in the continent before the Spanish “conquistadores” came to bring it down, they ruled all the Andean area, stretching from Ecuador (Quito), to Chile, passing through Bolivia and, obviously, the heart: Peru, Cusco!
Their culture, made of mysterious architecture, verbal and other non-written communication, surprisingly advanced astronomical knowledge, and a unique language, is still today clearly tangible
So let’s go through the Inca’s Path, the “Quapac nan” as called in their language (Quechua), and see what you can find (and what I found) along it, From North to South.
The streets of Quito, the Capital of Ecuador
Ecuador
Quito: northern province of the Inca Empire, the Chaskis (Inca messengers) could get there from Cusco in just 3 days. Today, by bus, it takes almost 2 full days. In modern times it has become one of the finest colonial city in South America, being the first included as UNESCO world heritage site in 1968.
Highlights: the spectacular Gothic Cathedral, the historical centre (La Ronda), the Jesuits Church, and a journey on the “Teleferico” (cable car) for a panoramic view of the city.If you’re around for lunch don’t miss the “Corvinas de don Jimmy”, in the Central Market; a mix of fried fish, roasted potatoes, and fresh fish salad that will get your taste buds going! Ready for a first taste of Fiesta Latina? The “Mariscal” quarter is packed with every kind of bar.
Banos: at the entrance of the Amazon Forest, in this little town you can relax at thermal baths, or go biking along the Waterfall’s Route. Along the way you can try every kind of adventure sport; from canopy line, to bungee jumping or rafting. The biggest waterfall are the “Devil’s Pavilion” (see its shape and you’ll know why), and “Machay”, where the rocks form a natural pool where you can even swim!Don’t miss out the highest swing in the world, hanging from a tree house, named best photo spot in 2014!
Quilotoa and Cotopaxi: Ecuador has one of the highest concentration of volcanoes on the planet; but one has been extinct for a long time and turned into a Volcanic Lake, the Quilotoa. There are not enough words to describe how many different colours you will see in one day over there.Hike all around the crater if you’re brave, or stupid, like me. It took almost 6 hours, while local people had said “it will be just 2 or 3 hours”…deserving my mental swearing in all the 4 languages I know.If you’re a bit more lazy, go on horseback to the bottom and then get a kayak, but don’t swim in the lake, the water is too sulphurous.
Want to see an active volcano? The Cotopaxi with his 5,973m is amongst the highest in the world. A pick-up truck can bring you up to 4,500m, then you’ll need to hike for 45 minute to get to the first stop, or a whole night if you are eager to reach the permanent glacier (5,500m).Breathing here, like in the Quilotoa, like everywhere above 3,500 m is extremely difficult. I thought my lung had suddenly become really small, but it’s normal. Step back, enjoy the view, and start walking again.
La Costa del Sol: You won’t see many other beaches from now on, so it’s worth to make a stop in Montanita and Puerto Lopez. Surf, parties, and the most colourful drinks I’ve ever seen. What else? Actually there is something else: the Machalilla park, with its “Playa de los frailes” and the Isla de la Plata are the closest thing to Galapagos you will find, if you are on a budget.
Perù
Lima: there are at two main reasons to go to Lima. First, it’s the capital and the biggest airport of Peru, second and most important, here you’ll find THE BEST food of the whole trip. Lomo Saltado, Patatas rellenas, Causas if you want to stay “Peruvian”, but the unique side of Lima is in the “Fusion food”, restaurants that mix Peruvian and Italian cuisine, or Peruvian and Spanish, or Peruvian and French..give it a try, you won’t be disappointed.
Cusco: from the new capital to the old one, the heart of the Inca Empire. Cusco will just enchant you, with its unique mix of old and new, of classic Inca’s enormous architecture and “colonial” Spanish cathedrals and buildings, old ladies with typical Peruvian clothes and young backpackers.Go to San Pedro market to have a typical lunch, walk around Plaza das Armas, finish up at the “12 angles stone” and try to spot the Puma and the Snake hidden in the wall.When the sun goes down, it’s Fiesta time! Personal recommendations: Chupiteria and Changos, best nightlife I’ve seen in those 3 countries, it’s something you won’t find so easily elsewhere (unlike the headache caused by few Pisco sour. That’s pretty common).
Macchu Picchu: Let’s go live the dream. Once upon a time there was only one way to get here, the original Inca Trail (strictly by foot), but today the possibilities are endless.You can choose the comfortable (and expensive) train “Peru-rail” which will bring you straight to Aguas Calientes, the town at the bottom of Macchu Picchu, and then hike the following morning.Or a 4/5 day hike along the remnants of the Inca Trail, or get a bus through the old Hydroelectric Central and maybe try a bit of rafting and hiking. The last one is the option I picked up: 2/3 days tour, it’s cheaper and more adventurous than the Train, but less stressful than the 5 days of hike. Not recommended if you don’t like narrow roads, here you’ll be driving right in the edge of a cliff!Endless possibilities, but after all same results: as difficult as it is, getting to Macchu Picchu is an experience in itself that will blow your mind..not to mention what you see and feel inside the ruins. Something Mystical..A time machine couldn’t have done it better.
Rainbow mountain: 3 hours away from Cusco, discovered just in 2015 and now becoming one of the top attractions of the area. The atmospheric agents’ erosion in the last centuries uncovered those stripes of colourful sediments which give the mountain a surreal look. You will feel like inside an impressionist painting! The 3 hours hike up here, at 5,000m, are REALLY tough but totally worth it. I made it without any help, but locals with horses are there to help you for just ten dollars. Big temptation.
The Manu Park: to have a glimpse of what is like to be in the Amazon Forest, I took a 3-4 days tour here. After a whole day of driving with a minibus along tiny trails, nature gets really wild, more than enough (more than you can expect). The first night it rained so much that we had to wait the whole morning so that the river could be back at an acceptable level and we could take a boat (during the night it had risen of 5 m). In the meanwhile, a rescue centre let us get in contact with monkeys, sloth and parrots. SO cute.To end with a bang the day, we did canopy line amongst trees of 50m: just breathtaking. Time to go to bed, but not before having seen a sunset like that; it is worth every drop of sweat we used to make it there.
Titicaca Lake: not just the biggest in the continent, but also with its 4,000 m of altitude the highest navigatable on the planet! Stop in Puno if you want to see the famous Floating Islands of the Uros community, made by layers of reed, or in Copacabana if you are keen to hike the “Isla del Sol” and discover some pre-Inca ruins. We tried Puno, a bit too touristy for my taste and everyone try to oversell you the tour of the islands..worth a day stop but nothing more.
Bolivia
La Paz: capital of Bolivia, the highest in the world with its 4,000 m. We got there on Sunday, so we decided to try a real South American experience: a football match in the “Hernando Siles” stadium, the highest in the world, the place where even Messi and his Argentina could be defeated 6-1! Why? Try to breath at that altitude..is difficult isn’t it? Now imagine running for 90 min.Beyond that, there is so much to see in La Paz: the witches’ market, where you will find lucky amulets, the Cathedral of San Francisco, El Alto district (you can get there by cable car, spectacular view!), the Mirador Killi Killi. Hungry? Try the San Miguel district, we had an amazing parrillada (mixed grilled meat), and everything around there is new and classy.
Uyuni Salt Desert: 10,000 years ago a prehistoric lake transformed into the world’s largest and highest (3,656m) salt flat. What you can see today is something difficult to explain by words: an endless bright expanse of white light, something really close to the stereotypical image of Paradise! Just some pile of salt here and there reminds you that you’re still on our planet. Eventually, the total absence of perspective makes this the ultimate place to be if you love taking pictures. In just one day I experienced what it feels like fitting into a shoe, sitting on a beer bottle, being chased by a T-rex (I am not crazy, see the pictures below).
45 days went by so fast, there really is so much to discover over here, so many treasures that Pachamama (Mother Earth) and the Incas have scattered around this part of America.
Elsapio